Under African Skies ✨ Travel Story For Better Sleep

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[00:01:04] All right, let's settle in together now because I have a real treat for you tonight. Let's get ready to go on a journey in tonight's transcendent sleep story. We'll join a couple as they journey from South Africa to the Kalahari, where there is nobody around. Just the two of them and their truck under endless stars.

[00:01:33] Paul tickled Jack's ears and shook his head. Sorry, little guy, he said to the dog. You can't come this time. Jack ducked out from under Paul's hand and jumped onto the back of the truck. He gave a quick couple of barks, a reminder that this was his place.

[00:02:01] We're going into the bush, said Paul. You know you can't come there. Look, Mary will stay with you. She'll take you for a walk to the river each day. You'll be just fine. The dog's tail wagged a little more slowly as realization sunk in. Every now and then, his master disappeared for days or even weeks at a time, and he wasn't allowed to go along.

[00:02:29] He'd come to learn that when the word bush appeared in a sentence, he was going to be left at home. Normally, they went everywhere together. The squat, sturdy little dog standing in the open back of the truck with his paws on the side, ears flapping in the wind, and eyes squinting against the sunlight. He pricked up his ears at the sound of a car approaching.

[00:02:56] The driveway was long, almost a mile from the road to the cabin. Dust kicked up into the air showed the progress of the vehicle. The truck wound its way between trees and past watering holes. Years of drought meant these now had to be artificially filled to keep the resident buck alive.

[00:03:19] The impalas and kudos, the water buck and nyala coming by in the early hours of the morning and as the evening sun started to sink beyond the horizon. Paul would sit by his cabin and watch them approaching the nearest watering hole. A cold beer in his hand, the reward for doing a hard day's work.

[00:03:47] Jock would lie by his side, the lessons learned long ago that these animals were not to be chased. Sometimes the dog's hackles would rise and he'd emit a low, rumbling growl. And Paul would watch as the silhouette of a leopard padded past in the distance.

[00:04:10] The vehicle bounced to a halt beside them, an old bug-shaped car decorated with rust. A tall female slowly extricated herself from the small space behind the wheel, reaching in for a wide-brimmed hat and dancing her bare feet across the hot sand,

[00:04:34] opening the back door and rummaging for a pair of leather sandals that she slipped into. Jock ran over to her, a bundle of welcoming licks and claws that scratched at her legs as he reached up as high as he could. This was how it worked when Laura arrived. Jock got the attention first,

[00:05:01] and once he was finally satisfied that he had been properly greeted, Paul was allowed to approach. Mind if I come in now, little guy? He said to Jock as the dog reluctantly backed off. Paul picked Laura off her feet as if she was light as a feather, pulling her to him and breathing in her warm, familiar scent.

[00:05:28] She pulled her legs up and wrapped them around his waist, burrowing into his shoulder and smiling at the feeling of home. I have a real treat for you this time, Paul said later as they sat on the porch. This is a trip like no other. Laura thought back on all the trips they'd taken together, The days of slowly following a pride of lions through the bush,

[00:05:56] of stumbling across herds of elephants and watching as the littlest ones ran brazenly at them, trumpeting loudly, waving their trunks in warning as they rushed to defend their amused mothers. There were the lines of guinea fowl, spotted feathers, and blue heads rising and dipping as they pecked their way across the red earth.

[00:06:26] Herds of wildebeest, their dark skin almost shining blue under the bright African sun, passing across great plains and pausing for brief moments of respite beneath the thin acacia trees. The thrill of seeing a leopard lying in wait beneath a bush, watching Impala grazing on the far side of a pan.

[00:06:54] And the moments of watching a giraffe awkwardly lower their head towards a watering hole, their legs spread as far apart as they dared, an elegant neck drooping downwards in a perfect arc, long eyelashes fluttering as they kept out a wary eye for predators. Laura wondered what Paul could mean.

[00:07:22] It was December, and they were deep into the dry season, so no chance of seeing any newborn animals. Are you going to give me a clue? She asked. Paul grinned. He leaned back in his chair and pushed his hat down over his eyes, one hand playing with Jock's ears. No, he said. No clues. You'll just have to wait.

[00:07:50] It'll take a few days to get there, mind. Laura mentally brought up a map of the area, wondering what could be a few days' drive away. They were in the far north of South Africa, nestled near the border with Zimbabwe and Botswana. Perhaps he planned to take her to Mozambique, and for a rare treat. They would hit the coastline there,

[00:08:18] a place of endless stretches of golden beach and dolphins that leapt through the waves. Yes, she smiled to herself. That must be it. A trip like no other must mean different animals, and surely they would head due east in the morning. Oh, okay, said Paul. One clue. Jock's not allowed to come.

[00:08:46] He turned his head and looked across at her, laughing at her confusion. You thought I meant the coast, right? Think again, my love. Think again. If Jock wasn't allowed, that meant they must be going to a game park, because he was always alongside Paul, unless rules forbid it. She shrugged her shoulders and decided to give in,

[00:09:16] waiting until first light to see in which direction they headed. Jock whined as they climbed into the truck without him that next morning. But Mary, ever-dependable Mary, the cleaner who came three times a week and moved in whenever Paul had to leave, distracted the little dog with treats and pats.

[00:09:45] He looked after the truck as it slowly wound its way through the trees and disappeared in a billowing cloud of dust, but then turned his attention to Mary as she deliberately rustled his food bag. Paul reached across and took Laura's hand, engulfing hers and his, then gently stroking with his thumb.

[00:10:16] The other hand held the wheel, and they drove on in an easy silence, watching the bush wake up around them. Birds rose in warning as they approached, screeching about their arrival. Impala looked up, startled from their early morning drink. A huge eagle stood at the very top of a tree,

[00:10:46] outlined against the sky, perched on one leg, with wings outspread towards the sun, as if welcoming the day. Out on the tarmac, already shimmering with a heat haze, Paul reached over and turned on the radio. It didn't work on the farm, but here,

[00:11:16] a little closer to a gentle version of civilization, there was enough reception to get a few crackled tunes to accompany them. Some country singer warbled about roads winding their way home, and this was followed by another drawling about losing his lover. Paul and Laura liked to joke sometimes,

[00:11:45] making up ever more ridiculous titles for songs. When familiar tunes came on the radio, they'd take it in turns to conjure up lyrics, singing along to much-loved melodies with their own over-the-top, exaggerated versions of songs involving jilted lovers and abandoned broken hearts.

[00:12:14] Just before lunch, they crossed the border into Botswana. They had to wake the man at the border crossing, coughing discreetly as they stood by the window, watching a few flies dancing around his open mouth. He sat up with a start, wheelie chair threatening to topple him

[00:12:41] as he grabbed to stabilize himself on the table. The man came out and walked slowly around the truck, peering into a few of the boxes in the back, with enough interest to show he had done his job, but not enough to actually find anything had they had something to hide. Where are you off to?

[00:13:10] He asked as he carefully inked his stamp and pushed it down hard on their passports, fresh green ink shining on the pages. Paul looked across at Laura and winked. His secret was out. The Kalahari, he said. Few days out there with the missus. The man gave a long, low whistle.

[00:13:38] He shits hell of a hot out there this time of year. No shade. You sure? Paul nodded. I'm sure, he said, and gestured towards the large water tank strapped to the roof. We'll be just fine. The man laughed, a flash of bright white teeth, and handed back the passports. Rather you than me, brother,

[00:14:05] he said as he sat back in the seat and reached for a flask. He poured out a coffee and, opening up a box, took a sandwich that he waved idly at Paul and Laura as they drove off. Only another four hours for him today, and then he could go home. He reckoned he'd maybe see

[00:14:33] two more cars in that time. A final bite of sandwich washed down with a gulp of coffee, and he settled back for another sleep. So, said Laura, as they headed out along a rough road, dotted with more donkeys than cars, the Kalahari. We went there last year, remember?

[00:15:02] I thought this was a trip like no other. Paul smiled at her. Yep, we went before, but that was the rainy season. You're seeing the real Africa this time. Dryest it's been in decades. Not a soul will be out there. Laura thought of the times they had driven through parks

[00:15:28] and seen just three or four other vehicles in a day. At night, they'd parked up at the regulated camping spots, sharing stories of the day's sightings with other visitors. Keen to share where the highest chances were of spotting cheetahs, leopards, and lions. Always the highest on anyone's list.

[00:15:57] She doubted Paul was right, but didn't want to say anything. There was always someone else out there. Always. They spent the night at a small bed and breakfast run by a young couple from South Africa. They were eager to please. Perhaps a little too eager, offering more drinks

[00:16:25] than it was possible to choose from, and chattering away about their new life in Botswana. Two large black Labradors draped themselves across Paul and Laura's feet, panting against the heats even as the sun disappeared and the sky became pricked with stars.

[00:16:55] Breakfast the next morning was overwhelming, with a whole army of homemade jams and marmalades lining up alongside four gleaming jars of honey and soft mountains of bread fresh from the oven. Wobbling piles of yellow and white scrambled eggs were presented,

[00:17:26] and the young couple sat and watched as they ate, occasionally leaping up with an, oh my gosh, sorry, and returning with pepper or tomato sauce or a butter knife. Even though Paul showed them a fridge packed with food in the truck, they insisted on pressing a basket of bread

[00:17:55] and jars of jam into his hand. The young man rushing in at the last moment and emerging with a cotton-wrapped package of cake. We'll see you again, the young girl asked, eyes wide with hope that they'd done enough to please their guests.

[00:18:25] Definitely, said Laura, as she leaned over to give her a squeeze. It's been wonderful, she added reassuringly. best sleep I've had in ages. It was true, too. The bed had been soft, and the heavy curtains at the windows had blocked out all traces of light.

[00:18:55] And with the fan idly spinning above, the mosquitoes had stayed away and left a warm, safe cocoon of a room. It was another few hours before they reached the edge of the Kalahari, where they had to wait for a game warden

[00:19:21] to check the deflated tires and gave a thumbs up, checked the spare fuel tank and unscrewed the cap of the water tank. Hell of a hot out there, he said as he went through his checklist. You're the only visitors I've checked in this week.

[00:19:49] You'll likely not see another soul out there. Paul smiled at Laura. I told you this trip was different, he said. Just before they drove off, the warden leaned in at Paul's window. You know you probably won't see any animals, right? They've all gone north. Too hot for them here.

[00:20:19] Not enough water. You okay with that? Paul patted the guy on the arm and nodded his head. The man shrugged and waved them on, wondering why on earth anyone would want to head into the middle of the desert to be entirely alone and not even get to see any of the animals people came on safari for.

[00:20:49] Laura was wondering the same. They always spent hours parked up by watering holes, waiting for animals to arrive, or resting in the shade of a tree alongside a plane, watching herds of buck grazing. Africa, she'd learned, was an easy continent to love.

[00:21:18] It is hard not to be enthralled by elephants and lions and rhinos. Hard not to feel your heart beating faster as you stare into the eyes of a leopard. This trip was different. This was Africa without the animal.

[00:21:50] A more real space that shimmered with the relentless heat of the sun through the thick, dried up salt pans gleamed white in the midday sun, throwing back a way that made it look

[00:22:19] as if pools of water were out there. Trees almost seemed to shake in the heat. Their long thorns etched against the skyline. The few that had leaves were a dusty gray-green,

[00:22:49] crisped and dried out, and curling off the thin branches. A leopard tortoise eased its way across the road in front of them. A slow and determined march across the scorched red earth, his shell protecting him

[00:23:19] from the fierce heat. Lara stepped out of the truck and knelt to watch his progress. Taking in the lines of ants that bustled back and forth along a landscape may be bare, and the larger mammals

[00:23:48] may have gone north in search of water. But there was life everywhere, if you looked closely enough. As they drove on, the landscape changed. The red earth became almost white at one point. Deep sand

[00:24:17] in which grew squat green trees that bent in the direction of a prevailing wind that eased its way laconically across the view. She climbed on top of the truck and, shielding her eyes from the sun, peered towards the horizon.

[00:24:45] A few small hillocks rose up here and there, but this vast expanse of land seemed empty. It was just her and Paul in a place the rest of the world appeared to have forgotten. The radio had long since ceased to work.

[00:25:15] The only sound was the wind shifting the sand around them deeper and deeper as the skies started to turn

[00:25:49] of a track towards the coordinates provided by the ranger. the only distinguishing feature of this place over all the others they had passed being a slightly larger tree that threw down some mottled shade

[00:26:22] and face west towards the setting sun watching as the huge sky turned a series of oranges. Do you know, said Paul quietly, wanting to share but hoping not to break the magic unfolding in front of them.

[00:26:51] Do you know we must have 20,000 square miles of land all to ourselves tonight? At least that. I doubt anyone else is in this park it could be more as much as 50 or even 100,000 square miles as if the rest of the world

[00:27:21] was forever away. Were the worries and cares that came with it were the concerns that came with everyday existence in a world full of expectations and wants and noise and intrusion.

[00:27:53] The red ball of fire slowly eased its way over the horizon and now the trees were dark lines etched against a sky of the deepest blue velvet. Stars appeared in their thousands

[00:28:21] much as the Milky Way than she had ever seen before. There was nothing here to break the light of the stars. Nothing here that dimmed them

[00:28:51] or crowded them out. A single speck of light moved steadily across the sky. A sweeping arc that was the sole reminder of the rest of the world

[00:29:27] they sat and watched as the stars went out across the sky in dramatic sweeps that seemed to travel further than falling stars had ever traveled before. It was still possible

[00:29:56] she thought to find complete peace in a world that seemed determined to erase any chance of that. It was still possible to find places untouched by any sign of man. It was still

[00:30:26] possible to live as we are surely meant to with a soft unspoken understanding between us and the land reaching sky. The space and the freedom and a

[00:30:56] sense of belonging she had never known before. Finally, she knew what it was to be in love. the animals and the safaris were just jewels that dazzle the sky.